Tile
What is the difference between Ceramic and Porcelain Tile?
Ceramic and Porcelain tiles are both made from unique clays fired at high temperatures with a glaze fired on top. The difference is that Porcelain is fired at a higher temperature, thus making it denser and able to withstand frost. Porcelain tile can be used outside because of this density. This does not
make Porcelain tile better than Ceramic tile for use indoors.
Will Ceramic or Porcelain tile break or chip?
Ceramic and Porcelain tile is more susceptible to breaking before installation than after. After proper installation, it is very difficult to break or chip tile unless its hit
with a heavy object such as a hammer having a small impact area. Structural breaks can occur if there is movement in the substrate. If damaged, individual tiles can be replaced.
What is Bullnose?
When installing tile on a wall application, sometimes there are edges that will be exposed if they are not covered properly with bullnose. A bullnose is a piece of trim that matches the tile and has three straight edges and one round edge. The round edge faces away from the tile to give a finishing touch to the outer edge of the installation.
Why is Travertine, Slate & Marble more expensive than Tile?
All Natural Stones are porous (easily absorbs liquid) and need to be sealed in the process of installation. They are also extracted from the earth in various countries, therefore have shipping fees worked into the price. It is also labor-intensive when installing because of its delicacy.
How should the new floors be taken care of?
NEVER use bleach on your tile or stone. Bleach will alter the color of grout and stone and it cannot be returned to its original condition. Your store-bought tile cleaners are safe to use as long as there is no bleach or acid in them. For cleaning ceramic, porcelain or natural stone, make sure to use a cleaner that is non-acidic (no vinegar). Acidic cleaners can eat away at grout and natural stone. This is especially important for natural stone because it can cause etching and scarring as it eats away at the surface of the stone. There are special cleaners made with a neutral pH level that are safe to use for both tile and stone. The safest route to take would be to visit your local tile distribution store for special cleaning products that will protect and maintain the beauty of your tile and stone.
Ceramic and Porcelain tiles are both made from unique clays fired at high temperatures with a glaze fired on top. The difference is that Porcelain is fired at a higher temperature, thus making it denser and able to withstand frost. Porcelain tile can be used outside because of this density. This does not
make Porcelain tile better than Ceramic tile for use indoors.
Will Ceramic or Porcelain tile break or chip?
Ceramic and Porcelain tile is more susceptible to breaking before installation than after. After proper installation, it is very difficult to break or chip tile unless its hit
with a heavy object such as a hammer having a small impact area. Structural breaks can occur if there is movement in the substrate. If damaged, individual tiles can be replaced.
What is Bullnose?
When installing tile on a wall application, sometimes there are edges that will be exposed if they are not covered properly with bullnose. A bullnose is a piece of trim that matches the tile and has three straight edges and one round edge. The round edge faces away from the tile to give a finishing touch to the outer edge of the installation.
Why is Travertine, Slate & Marble more expensive than Tile?
All Natural Stones are porous (easily absorbs liquid) and need to be sealed in the process of installation. They are also extracted from the earth in various countries, therefore have shipping fees worked into the price. It is also labor-intensive when installing because of its delicacy.
How should the new floors be taken care of?
NEVER use bleach on your tile or stone. Bleach will alter the color of grout and stone and it cannot be returned to its original condition. Your store-bought tile cleaners are safe to use as long as there is no bleach or acid in them. For cleaning ceramic, porcelain or natural stone, make sure to use a cleaner that is non-acidic (no vinegar). Acidic cleaners can eat away at grout and natural stone. This is especially important for natural stone because it can cause etching and scarring as it eats away at the surface of the stone. There are special cleaners made with a neutral pH level that are safe to use for both tile and stone. The safest route to take would be to visit your local tile distribution store for special cleaning products that will protect and maintain the beauty of your tile and stone.
Carpet
What type of carpet fiber is best?
There are many different factors that make each type of carpet fiber perform better than others. Personal preference and the type of use are the two determining factors when selecting what's best for you.
Nylon:
Nylon is the most frequently used carpet fiber, and is highly desirable due to its exceptional durability, versatility, and reasonable pricing. It can be dyed in and endless variety of colors and made into numerous styles and textures. Nylon carpets are typically the softest of all fibers ad are extremely durable, stain and mildew resistant and static free. Nylon is an excellent choice for all levels of traffic and applications. It maintains its fiver height allowing it to withstand the weight of heavy furniture.
Polyester:
Polyester has good color clarity, colorfastness, and resistance to water-soluble stains. Polyester is typically less expensive than nylon. It has availability in a vast array of dynamic colors and its resistance to fading provides Polyester fibers with a lot of advantages. The wear ratio is typically less than nylon and would not bounce back as fast as nylon when moving furniture away from it.
Olefin:
Olefin fiber was originally used for outdoor carpeting and basements due to its resistance to moisture, mildew, water damage, staining, pilling, shedding and static. Now it's more widely used for it's durability and appearance. Olefin is dyed before it's made into a fiber and therefore is colorfast. Some olefin can flatten from the pressure of weight over time and can possible fade in direct sunlight. Most olefins are seein in the traditional Berber style.
How is carpet measured?
Carpet is measured by the square yard and comes spooled on a roll. The rolls traditionally come in 12-foot widths and will occasionally come in 15-foot widths. When you choose one carpet for your home, we measure the house as if we are using the same carpet throughout (this is typically what people do). If you wish to do more than one type of carpet in different rooms of the house your amount of square yardage will change. The leftover pieces from one room could have been used in another room if the same carpet was used throughout. This could increase your waster factor by 10-40% and will always cause an upgrade.
What type of padding should I choose?
Firm carpet padding is necessary to form a good foundation for your carpet, increasing its comfort and extending its life by acting as a shock absorber when someone walks on the carpet. The pad helps buffer sound and provides increased insulation, making a room quieter and warmer. Standard padding is 6 - lb. density recycled foam. There are various types of pad that are available to perform in different ways. These performing factors are:
Higher Weight: Offers a more dense padding to help the carpet wear better over time; prolongs the lift of the carpet.
Thicker Pad: Offers more of a plush, pillow-like feel. However, carpet may not wear correctly or last as long because of the lack of support behind it.
Moisture Resistance: Moisture Resistance Protection resists spills and accidents from bleeding through or seeping from the sub-floor.
Which carpet is right for you?
Cut Pile: A cut pile carpet has fibers drawn through the backing of the carpet and then is cut at one level. This is a traditional look that is great for any area of the house. Cut piles tend to show vacuum lines and foot traffic, although as the density increases the traffic visibility decreases. They are available in Nylon and Polyester fibers. Cut piles are available in a wide variety of solid colors.
Frieze: A frieze is the modern-age shag carpet. The fibers are drawn through the backing of the carpet at slightly different levels to create a textured look. The fibers are then twisted light. The twisted fibers at different levels give low visibility on vacuum lines and foot traffic. This is a modern style of carpet that works great in any area of the home. They are available in Nylon and Polyester fibers. Friezes offer a wide variety of solid colors and will sometimes have flecks of other colors woven into the fibers.
Berber: A traditional berber carpet is created by threading the fibers in and out of the backing to create loops. This type of procedure is great for keeping dirt from seeping into the carpet and does not show vacuum lines or foot traffic. Berber is a great look for any area of the house. They are available in Olefin and Nylon fibers.
Loop/Cut/Loop (LCL): These carpets are traditionally called pattern berbers because of the looping technique used to manufacture them. These carpets will have a pattern of some sort to create a visual effect within the carpet such as vines, leaves, diamonds, or squares. The patterns come from having fibers looped into the backing and other fibers pulled through and cut at the surface to create two dimensions. These carpets are traditionally offered in Nylons. They offer a wide variety of solid colors.
There are many different factors that make each type of carpet fiber perform better than others. Personal preference and the type of use are the two determining factors when selecting what's best for you.
Nylon:
Nylon is the most frequently used carpet fiber, and is highly desirable due to its exceptional durability, versatility, and reasonable pricing. It can be dyed in and endless variety of colors and made into numerous styles and textures. Nylon carpets are typically the softest of all fibers ad are extremely durable, stain and mildew resistant and static free. Nylon is an excellent choice for all levels of traffic and applications. It maintains its fiver height allowing it to withstand the weight of heavy furniture.
Polyester:
Polyester has good color clarity, colorfastness, and resistance to water-soluble stains. Polyester is typically less expensive than nylon. It has availability in a vast array of dynamic colors and its resistance to fading provides Polyester fibers with a lot of advantages. The wear ratio is typically less than nylon and would not bounce back as fast as nylon when moving furniture away from it.
Olefin:
Olefin fiber was originally used for outdoor carpeting and basements due to its resistance to moisture, mildew, water damage, staining, pilling, shedding and static. Now it's more widely used for it's durability and appearance. Olefin is dyed before it's made into a fiber and therefore is colorfast. Some olefin can flatten from the pressure of weight over time and can possible fade in direct sunlight. Most olefins are seein in the traditional Berber style.
How is carpet measured?
Carpet is measured by the square yard and comes spooled on a roll. The rolls traditionally come in 12-foot widths and will occasionally come in 15-foot widths. When you choose one carpet for your home, we measure the house as if we are using the same carpet throughout (this is typically what people do). If you wish to do more than one type of carpet in different rooms of the house your amount of square yardage will change. The leftover pieces from one room could have been used in another room if the same carpet was used throughout. This could increase your waster factor by 10-40% and will always cause an upgrade.
What type of padding should I choose?
Firm carpet padding is necessary to form a good foundation for your carpet, increasing its comfort and extending its life by acting as a shock absorber when someone walks on the carpet. The pad helps buffer sound and provides increased insulation, making a room quieter and warmer. Standard padding is 6 - lb. density recycled foam. There are various types of pad that are available to perform in different ways. These performing factors are:
Higher Weight: Offers a more dense padding to help the carpet wear better over time; prolongs the lift of the carpet.
Thicker Pad: Offers more of a plush, pillow-like feel. However, carpet may not wear correctly or last as long because of the lack of support behind it.
Moisture Resistance: Moisture Resistance Protection resists spills and accidents from bleeding through or seeping from the sub-floor.
Which carpet is right for you?
Cut Pile: A cut pile carpet has fibers drawn through the backing of the carpet and then is cut at one level. This is a traditional look that is great for any area of the house. Cut piles tend to show vacuum lines and foot traffic, although as the density increases the traffic visibility decreases. They are available in Nylon and Polyester fibers. Cut piles are available in a wide variety of solid colors.
Frieze: A frieze is the modern-age shag carpet. The fibers are drawn through the backing of the carpet at slightly different levels to create a textured look. The fibers are then twisted light. The twisted fibers at different levels give low visibility on vacuum lines and foot traffic. This is a modern style of carpet that works great in any area of the home. They are available in Nylon and Polyester fibers. Friezes offer a wide variety of solid colors and will sometimes have flecks of other colors woven into the fibers.
Berber: A traditional berber carpet is created by threading the fibers in and out of the backing to create loops. This type of procedure is great for keeping dirt from seeping into the carpet and does not show vacuum lines or foot traffic. Berber is a great look for any area of the house. They are available in Olefin and Nylon fibers.
Loop/Cut/Loop (LCL): These carpets are traditionally called pattern berbers because of the looping technique used to manufacture them. These carpets will have a pattern of some sort to create a visual effect within the carpet such as vines, leaves, diamonds, or squares. The patterns come from having fibers looped into the backing and other fibers pulled through and cut at the surface to create two dimensions. These carpets are traditionally offered in Nylons. They offer a wide variety of solid colors.
Hardwood
What is the difference in Pre-finished and Site-finished?
Pre-finished: Wood that goes through the finishing process at a wood mill. Typically, these products are stained with an oil-based color and sealed with an aluminum oxide finish. These products are ready to be installed upon delivery.
Site-finished: Wood that receives the stain color and finish on site. This option will offer a wide selection of stain colors for a more personal choice. Typically the finish applied is three coats of Polyurethane, available in a satin or semi-gloss finish.
What is the difference in Solid and Engineered Wood?
Solid: Solid wood is constructed out of one piece of wood and is usually 3/4" thick. They are available in several widths and species. They are easy to sand and re-finish many years down the road.
Engineered: Engineered wood is constructed from sheets cut from trees into veneers, which are then glued together with the grains adjacent to one another. This construction creates an advantage in the expanding and contacting that wood naturally goes through in extreme temperatures. Because the grains are adjacent to one another, they fight one another and the wood does not expand or contact. The ability to sand and re-finish engineered wood is an option, but the top wear-layer needs to be thick enough to consider it.
Do I need solid or engineered wood?
If your home sits on a slab: You will need to do an engineered product since they can be glued down. There are many options to choose from that are pre-finished engineered. If you like the look of a site-finished floor, your options are open to doing site-finished engineered wood or solid oak shorts (length of boards range between 6-18 inches).
If your home sits on a basement or crawlspace: You have the option to choose from solid or engineered wood.
Can you do Dust-Free Re-finishing?
We do have the ability to do dust-free re-finishing. Dust-free does not mean it is 100% dust-free, the amount of dust particles in the air will be lessened by a great amount. Although it is pricier than the traditional method of sanding, this process is good to use when you are residing in the home.
How long does it take to install/sand and finish my hardwoods?
Installation can vary depending on whether there is existing flooring that needs to be removed and the amount that will be installed. When the hardwood is delivered to the site, we will need to allow the wood time to adjust to its surroundings and expand/contract as necessary. This process is called acclimation. Once the wood has acclimated, we can usually have it installed within 1-2 days, with the stain color applied and the first coat of polyurethane. We will then apply the second coat of polyurethane the following day, and if necessary, the third coat the next day.
When will I be able to walk on my new hardwoods?
If the hardwoods are site-finished you can walk on them the day after they are completed, but you will need to be careful for up to 60 days because the finish is oil-based. Simply walking across them will not affect the finish.
Pre-finished: Wood that goes through the finishing process at a wood mill. Typically, these products are stained with an oil-based color and sealed with an aluminum oxide finish. These products are ready to be installed upon delivery.
Site-finished: Wood that receives the stain color and finish on site. This option will offer a wide selection of stain colors for a more personal choice. Typically the finish applied is three coats of Polyurethane, available in a satin or semi-gloss finish.
What is the difference in Solid and Engineered Wood?
Solid: Solid wood is constructed out of one piece of wood and is usually 3/4" thick. They are available in several widths and species. They are easy to sand and re-finish many years down the road.
Engineered: Engineered wood is constructed from sheets cut from trees into veneers, which are then glued together with the grains adjacent to one another. This construction creates an advantage in the expanding and contacting that wood naturally goes through in extreme temperatures. Because the grains are adjacent to one another, they fight one another and the wood does not expand or contact. The ability to sand and re-finish engineered wood is an option, but the top wear-layer needs to be thick enough to consider it.
Do I need solid or engineered wood?
If your home sits on a slab: You will need to do an engineered product since they can be glued down. There are many options to choose from that are pre-finished engineered. If you like the look of a site-finished floor, your options are open to doing site-finished engineered wood or solid oak shorts (length of boards range between 6-18 inches).
If your home sits on a basement or crawlspace: You have the option to choose from solid or engineered wood.
Can you do Dust-Free Re-finishing?
We do have the ability to do dust-free re-finishing. Dust-free does not mean it is 100% dust-free, the amount of dust particles in the air will be lessened by a great amount. Although it is pricier than the traditional method of sanding, this process is good to use when you are residing in the home.
How long does it take to install/sand and finish my hardwoods?
Installation can vary depending on whether there is existing flooring that needs to be removed and the amount that will be installed. When the hardwood is delivered to the site, we will need to allow the wood time to adjust to its surroundings and expand/contract as necessary. This process is called acclimation. Once the wood has acclimated, we can usually have it installed within 1-2 days, with the stain color applied and the first coat of polyurethane. We will then apply the second coat of polyurethane the following day, and if necessary, the third coat the next day.
When will I be able to walk on my new hardwoods?
If the hardwoods are site-finished you can walk on them the day after they are completed, but you will need to be careful for up to 60 days because the finish is oil-based. Simply walking across them will not affect the finish.